Saturday, October 17, 2009

CLOTHING, DEFINING CULTURE



A wide variety of Ridah's
Photo Credit: Nafisa Zaki




Walking through a street, where every body looks just the same, there are some people who stand out in the crowd. They are dressed modestly yet differently from the rest. A glance at them and people who know their community can easily tell their history, culture, and other specific features about them. And for those who gape with astonishment, they belong to a community called Dawoodi Bohra. And their specific dress style easily distinguishes them from the rest of the world.

The women who belong to this community wear a Rida, which is two piece clothing. And covers their entire body except for their face and palms. Apart from the conventional burkhas, these are different as they are in different colours and designs. The dressing style of this community whether it be men or women is said to define the community in the right manner.

Though clothing cannot be imagined to play any significant part in telling histories but if you go to see it was the way the people were dressed at those times which defines half of their attributes and marks history.

Cultures are not only spoken about in art works, dance forms, stories and books. They are attributed in many more things such as food, dresses, style of communication and way of carrying oneself. In the same manner, the dressing styles of the bohra talk about the way they are. Conventional yet colourful, modern yet secretive etc.

Like every other thing in the world even the ridas keep evolving. The community which is known for its unity and harmony is exceptionally thankful to their leader His Holiness D.R. Syedna Muhammad Burhanuddin who has brought about a significant change in this dress.

Before it was the same as what the majority of Muslim ladies wear today known as Khais. But then a need was felt to give an identity to the community and hence, the dressing was changed as it is the most significant aspect that is exposed to the world.

"We are very grateful to our leader as it was under his leadership that our dresses have changed. We did not mind wearing khais too. But with ridas we can experiment with different colours and designs. We stand out amongst the many and are respected for the same." says Rehana Zaki, a home maker.



a ridah with an image.

photo credit: Nafisa Zaki


If we closely look into the trends in Ridas we see majority of changes that have happened since before. Before they were just available in different colours. The brides used to wear more extravagant Ridas which had a hand made work done entirely on the skirt. This work would be floral, painting, landscape or others. But images of humans or animals are completely avoided.
"We have had many changes in designs, in fact each year something new comes up and so we have to be very smart in our ordering of ridas as better ridas keep coming up. Right now very simple ridas are being preferred but youngsters today are experimenting with colours a lot." says Rashida Silky, a very famous importer of ridas and owner of a brand called Silkytex.

Nowadays, colours like bright red, orange, green and others which no body could imagine wearing are preferred. Many different materials are also experimented with like jute, tuff cotton, jeans, raw silk and many others.

Bridal Ridas are made of raw silk and have exuberant colours and designs. The beauty of the bride is doubled by the Rida and also the matched accessories especially the matching 'maang tikka' which the brides wear for the nikah function.

Rafika bai, stitching a ridah.
photo credit: Nafisa Zaki

"Stitching Ridas is very easy as nowadays we get readymade two piece suits which just have to be attached according to measurement, and in one week I get an order for 5 Ridas to be stitched. And during functions like Ramadan, Eid etc. I get orders for at least 20 ridas in one week. And for these ridas I have to be extra careful as they are anyways very expensive" says Rafika Dahod wala, a rida tailor

Dawoodi Bohra community is known to travel a lot for various reasons and the best part is that every country has their own style of ridas, because people travel a lot they always exchange views on how to give ridas a new touch. As a result though they wear the same dress they are all different in their own way. There is a lot more about ridas than just this but the most important part about it is that it keeps the essence of culture alive in all times to come and their wearers take pride in showcasing it as they now have a significant identity and can satisfy their urge to be dressed decently and also delightfully.

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